Clothing Fabrics

Wool

Wool was the most commonly used fibre in Roman clothing, serving as the foundation for various garments across all social classes. The sheep of Tarentum were particularly renowned for their high-quality wool, which was prized for its softness and durability. In addition to Tarentum, regions such as Miletus in Asia Minor and Gallia Belgica were also known for their superior wool exports. The latter produced a heavier, rougher wool that was especially suitable for winter garments. While white wool was preferred for most clothing, naturally dark wool was often used for the toga pulla, a garment worn during mourning, and for work clothes that were more likely to become soiled.

In the provinces, both private landowners and the Roman state managed extensive grazing lands where sheep were raised. The wool was processed and woven in specialized manufactories, contributing significantly to local economies. Britannia, for instance, was noted for its woolen products, including the birrus brittanicus, a type of duffel coat, as well as fine carpets and felt linings for military helmets. The production and trade of woolen textiles were vital to the Roman economy, reflecting the importance of this material in daily life.

Silk and Exotic Fabrics

Silk was imported from China in substantial quantities as early as the 3rd century BC. Roman traders acquired raw silk at Phoenician ports such as Tyre and Berytus, where it was then woven and dyed. As Roman weaving techniques advanced, silk yarn was transformed into intricate damasks and tapestries, showcasing geometric and free-form designs. Some of these silk fabrics were exceptionally fine, with up to 50 threads per centimeter. The production of such luxurious textiles became a specialty of weavers in the eastern provinces of the empire, where horizontal looms were first developed.

Despite its allure, silk was subject to various sumptuary laws aimed at regulating its use. In the early Empire, the Senate prohibited men from wearing silk, associating it with effeminacy, while women who donned the fabric were often viewed as immodest. The Emperor Aurelian reportedly forbade his wife from purchasing a Tyrian purple silk mantle, reflecting the moral concerns surrounding silk consumption. The extravagant use of silk, particularly by the elite, led to significant outflows of gold and silver coinage from Rome, raising concerns about economic stability. Diocletian’s Edict on Maximum Prices in 301 AD set the price of one kilo of raw silk at an exorbitant 4,000 gold coins, illustrating its value and the lengths to which the state went to control its market.

Linen & Cotton

Linen, produced from flax and hemp, was another important fabric in Roman clothing. Pliny the Elder documented the linen production process, which involved harvesting, retting, and weaving the plant stems. Flax was available in various grades, with the finest linen imported from Saetabis in Spain, while the strongest came from Retovium. The whitest and softest linen was produced in regions such as Latium, Falerii, and Paelignium. Natural linen typically had a greyish-brown hue that could be bleached or used in its raw state, although it did not readily absorb dyes.

Cotton, imported from India, was another fabric that gained popularity. It was often used for padding and could be spun into a lightweight, soft fabric ideal for summer wear. Cotton was more comfortable than wool and less expensive than silk, making it a practical choice for many Romans. Its ability to be brightly dyed further enhanced its appeal, leading to the interweaving of cotton and linen to create vivid, durable textiles. Additionally, high-quality fabrics were produced from nettle stems and poppy-stem fibres, which were processed similarly to linen.