Castello dei Vicari: A Historic Fortress in Lari, Italy

Visitor Information

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Official Website: www.castellodilari.it

Country: Italy

Civilization: Early Modern, Medieval European

Site type: Military

Remains: Castle

History

The Castello dei Vicari stands in the town of Lari, Italy, on a hill that has been occupied since ancient times. Its origins may trace back to the early medieval period, possibly to the Lombard era, though the first confirmed medieval phase dates from the 12th century. The castle’s early history includes destruction by forces from nearby Pisa in 1164. Following this devastation, the fortification was rebuilt beginning in the early 13th century, between 1230 and 1287, under the control of the Upezzinghi family. Initially opposing Pisa, the family eventually submitted following the intervention of the condottiero Guido da Montefeltro in 1289, which restored the castle to Pisan rule.

Over subsequent centuries, the castle came under partial ownership of the Archbishops of Pisa, who derived income from rents and tributes paid by the vicars responsible for governing the surrounding territory, known as the vicariate. By the mid-18th century, most of the medieval Pisan structures had disappeared, except for a southwestern wall near the garden, as the castle underwent a transformation through rebuilding and expansion led by Florentine authorities.

The 16th century marked an important phase of renovation initiated by the Medici family, then rulers of Florence. These works aimed to strengthen the castle’s defenses following previous conflicts that had weakened its fortifications. Key vicars such as Iacopo di Bongiovanni Gianfigliazzi, who contributed personally to financing in 1523, and Bartolomeo Capponi, who governed from 1525 to 1526, oversaw this renewal. Around 1530, plans for further fortifications were drawn up by architect Francesco da San Gallo or his son but were never realized due to limited funds and possibly the elder San Gallo’s death.

Mid-century reports revealed structural problems caused by cellars excavated beneath the castle, leading to instability. In 1559, engineer David Fortini documented damage including collapsing walls. Cosimo I de’ Medici authorized funds for repairs and extended vicars’ terms to provide financial stability for restoration, although some damaged sections remained unrestored.

In 1725, a landslide severely damaged the castle’s outer portions and tragically resulted in the death of the vicar’s son. Reconstruction after this event was limited; the Archbishop of Pisa vetoed full restoration efforts, allowing only partial rebuilding completed by 1775.

By the late 19th century, the castle had been repurposed to serve as the local court and prison, with updates to meet modern standards. After the court’s closure in 1923, the castle was rented to private families, who altered the interiors by creating new living spaces that significantly changed the original layout. The archives documenting the vicariate’s administration were moved after World War II to the State Archives of Pisa. Starting in the 1970s and 80s, efforts began to revive attention to the castle, culminating in the early 1990s when a volunteer cultural group, supported by municipal authorities, reopened parts of the complex for guided visits and cultural events. Archaeological excavations revealed important artifacts such as Etruscan pottery and a large Roman marble statue’s torso discovered in 1997.

In 1996, the castle’s historical collections were dedicated to Filippo Baldinucci, a notable 17th-century art historian who once governed the Pisane Hills vicariate. Between 1996 and 2007, restoration projects funded by the Pisa Savings Bank Foundation repaired various parts of the building, including frescoes and coats of arms from Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque periods. In 2014, a locally painted icon depicting Emperor Constantine was installed to commemorate the 1700th anniversary of the Edict of Milan (313 AD), celebrating religious tolerance and highlighting the region’s connection to Roman-Christian heritage.

Remains

The Castello dei Vicari presents a layout centered around a large courtyard, accessed via an external staircase leading into the complex. The courtyard is enclosed by several important structures arranged on its sides. On the right stands the castle chapel, part of the former west wing of the fortress, while opposite the entrance lie the prison cells, reflecting the castle’s later civic use.

Dominating the courtyard is the Palazzo dei Cancellieri, a central block distinguished by a façade richly decorated with numerous coats of arms belonging to the successive vicars of Lari. This heraldic display attests to the castle’s role as an administrative seat. At the center of the courtyard sits a large cistern, designed to collect rainwater draining from the surrounding roofs, an essential feature for sustaining those inside during sieges or dry periods.

The far end of the courtyard is closed by the Palazzo dei Vicari, featuring a monumental façade adorned with an extensive array of heraldic emblems, expressing the history and authority of the vicars who governed the region. Among the surviving medieval elements, only a portion of a southwestern wall near the castle garden remains from the original Pisan structures.

The defensive enhancements from the 16th century included fortifications attributed to Francesco da San Gallo or his son, though some features like a western stairway have since been demolished. These upgrades aimed to improve the castle’s resilience in response to earlier military threats. Inside, the castle preserves important cycles of frescoes spanning Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque artistic periods, all restored during the late 20th-century conservation efforts.

Archaeological discoveries within the castle grounds include Etruscan pottery fragments, indicating the hill’s ancient cultural layers predating the medieval fortress. In 1997, a significant find was made when archaeologist Giovanni Ranieri Fascetti uncovered a large white marble torso of a Roman statue, offering a tangible link to the classical past beneath the medieval and Renaissance overlay.

The castle’s interiors experienced substantial alteration during the 20th century when converted to residential use. Large halls were subdivided by added floors, and many original fixtures such as grilles and gates were removed, though recent restorations have aimed at returning these spaces closer to their historical appearance, respecting the castle’s architectural heritage.