Palacio de Cibeles: Madrid’s Historic Communications Headquarters

Palacio de Cibeles
Palacio de Cibeles
Palacio de Cibeles

Site at a Glance

Rating
4.7
Popularity
Low
Country
Spain
Primary era
Modern
External website
Open
Eras represented
Modern
Civilizations
Spanish
Site type
Civic
Remains
Town Hall
On this page16 sections

History

Palacio de Cibeles is a communications palace in Madrid, Spain, designed by Antonio Palacios and Joaquín Otamendi as the headquarters of Spain’s Society of Post and Telegraph. Conceived in the early twentieth century, its eclectic architecture combined Neo-Plateresque, Neo-Gothic, Salamanca Baroque, and modern Central European influences. It brought postal, telegraph, and telephone services together in a single civic complex and became Madrid’s principal centre for postal communications.

From Buen Retiro gardens to communications centre

The complex occupies land that had formed part of the Buen Retiro gardens. After a redesign by José Grases Riera, the gardens had operated as an entertainment area with a cafe-restaurant, theatre-circus, and bandstand. The attraction opened in spring 1894 and continued for ten years. In 1904, the Spanish Cortes, Spain’s legislative assembly, authorized the sale and subdivision of the garden lands. The decision provoked criticism because it removed a recreational area from central Madrid.

José Urioste y Velada subsequently laid out streets across the former gardens, including Montalbán, Valenzuela, Alfonso XI, and Ruiz de Alarcón. The state reserved land for the communications palace and other public institutions, while the remaining plots were transferred to Madrid City Council. The new complex occupied about 30,000 square metres of this reorganized urban area, at the junction of Calle de Alcalá and Paseo del Prado.

On 19 August 1904, the Cortes approved the project for a new post office, and a public competition was announced the next day. The requirements called for one integrated centre for postal, telegraph, and telephone services. They also included the conversion of part of Calle de Alarcón into a passage and required the design to respect the architectural character of the surrounding streets.

Design and construction

Three projects were submitted in 1904. The Royal Academy of Fine Arts of San Fernando unanimously selected the proposal by Palacios and Otamendi on 13 November. Although the design was incomplete and lacked technical detail, the academy considered it adaptable, functionally efficient, and more attentive to public convenience than the competing schemes. The architects had to revise and complete it within one month. Their proposal was also the least expensive, although all three projects exceeded the initial budget.

The project received approval in 1905, but political resistance, disagreements over municipal land transfers, and a request from the Madrid Chamber of Commerce for another competition delayed the work. Construction was suspended for two years during a Liberal government and resumed under a Conservative government. The first stone was laid in 1907, and construction officially began on 12 September of that year.

The work was assigned to Toran y Harguindey, while Ángel Chueca Sainz calculated the metal structures. Construction lasted twelve years, with the building substantially completed in 1918. The complex was formally inaugurated at midday on 14 March 1919 by Alfonso XIII, Queen Victoria Eugenia, and members of the government. Its presentation as the “Cathedral of Communications” reflected the belief that modern communications represented national progress and modernity.

The building began providing Public Postal Savings Bank services in 1916, before construction had finished. Its final cost reached twelve million pesetas, nearly three times the original estimate. About 1,500 to 2,000 tonnes of iron, 7,000 cubic metres of stone, and large quantities of brick were used, and the building work disrupted traffic along Paseo del Prado. In 1920, the palace became the international headquarters of the Universal Postal Union, the organization responsible for coordinating postal systems and standards among participating countries. Managing postal traffic was among its first international functions.

War, alteration, and changing use

The palace also witnessed major political events. When the Second Spanish Republic was proclaimed on 14 April 1931, the republican flag was raised on its facade. During the final fighting of the Spanish Civil War, on 8 and 9 March 1939, communist troops occupied the building for several hours. Forces loyal to Segismundo Casado, the military commander who led the 1939 revolt against the Republican government, defended positions in nearby government and military buildings. The palace escaped major bombing damage, although gunfire left bullet marks on its white facade.

Changes in communications technology gradually altered the building’s purpose. Alejandro de la Sota oversaw modifications to improve its communications systems during the 1960s. Further repairs and alterations followed between 1980 and 1992 under Antonio de Sala-Navarro and Reverter. The facade was whitened in 1994, and Belén Isla Ayuso directed its first major facade restoration in 1996.

Postal and telegraph services declined in importance during the late twentieth century. Telegraph use in Spain continued to grow until 1987, but by 2005 the service had become residual, with fewer than 500 users. In 1993, the building was declared a Bien de Interés Cultural in the monument category, Spain’s principal legal protection category for recognized cultural heritage. At the beginning of the twenty-first century, it entered Madrid’s municipal estate and began a new life as the headquarters of Madrid City Council and a cultural centre.

A 2003 collaboration protocol between Madrid City Council and the Treasury initiated the transformation for municipal use. Following a land exchange and six years of interior remodelling, the palace became the official seat of the mayor on 5 November 2007. Alberto Ruiz-Gallardón was the first mayor to occupy the new headquarters. The municipal plenary hall was inaugurated on 29 November 2011 in the presence of King Juan Carlos I and Mayor Ruiz-Gallardón, and the first municipal plenary session took place the following day. The former postal sorting hall, known as the “Battle Room,” was adapted for this purpose.

The rehabilitation also created CentroCentro, a cultural facility with exhibition spaces, public areas, and an auditorium seating 262 people. Parts of the complex opened to the public in 2011, and the central tower was adapted as a viewing point. These changes preserved the building’s civic role while replacing its original communications function with municipal administration and cultural use.

Remains

Palacio de Cibeles consists of two white-facaded buildings on the side of Plaza de Cibeles in Madrid’s Los Jerónimos neighbourhood. The complex is bounded by Calle de Alcalá to the north, Calle de Montalbán to the south, Calle de Alfonso XII to the east, and Paseo del Prado to the west. Its general technical specification gives a total surface area of 12,207 square metres. The principal surviving elements are the monumental facade, the central hall, the Passage of Alarcón, the former service areas, the towers, and the later glass gallery.

Exterior composition

The architects gave the complex an eclectic character with strong Neo-Plateresque references, meaning a revival of the highly ornamented Spanish Plateresque style of the late Gothic and early Renaissance periods. Salamanca Baroque, Neo-Gothic, late Gothic Spanish traditions, and the geometric decoration of the Austrian Secession also shaped the design. Structural ideas associated with Gustave Eiffel and Otto Wagner, together with the work of Rodrigo Gil de Hontañón, informed its architectural language.

The facade is clad in Novelda stone, a carbonate biocalcarenite quarried in the Vinalopó Medio area of Alicante. Its white appearance is one of the complex’s defining features. The front is concave, responding to the form of Plaza de Cibeles and incorporating the changing perspectives experienced by pedestrians moving around the building. Its overall expression combines monumental American architecture with Spanish forms.

Towers and clock

Two lateral towers frame a central tower that rises about 70 metres above ground level. The central tower contains an illuminated electric clock approximately three metres in diameter. Numerous pinnacles stand between the central and lateral towers. They were intended to carry telegraph wires, but the wires were never installed after communications technology shifted towards underground conduits. The unused supports remain as decorative elements.

Sculptural and heraldic decoration

Decorative detail becomes denser towards the upper levels. Geometric ornament, empty cartouches framed by garlands and crowns, classically derived segmented windows, stars, pomegranates, and sword-bearing figures enliven the facade. The belief that the empty shields represented Spain’s provinces is a popular tradition rather than an established fact about the design.

A female figure with a partly vegetal body occupies the keystone of the main entrance arch. Derived from Plateresque ornament, she was popularly nicknamed “La Rubia.” Near the lateral towers are busts of Hernán Cortés, Ferdinand Magellan, and Balboa, figures associated with Spanish imperial exploration and conquest. Above the main entrance, the Spanish coat of arms incorporates the arms of Galicia, showing a chalice and seven crosses. This detail was associated with Palacios’s Galician origin and was reportedly suggested during a visit to his workshop.

Communications buildings and central hall

The two buildings are divided by the Passage of Alarcón. The building facing Plaza de Cibeles contained the postal, telegraph, and telephone centres, while the building behind the passage housed the General Directorate. Telegraph administration was arranged along Calle de Alcalá and postal administration along Paseo del Prado. The original scheme connected the communications centres with the General Directorate by elevated passageways. The main entrance faced Plaza de Cibeles and was approached by a broad staircase.

Central hall

The central hall is entered from Plaza de Cibeles through a revolving glass-and-stainless-steel door installed in 2019 to recover the appearance of the original design. Its inverted-T plan gives access to three functional arms. Postal services originally occupied the right-hand arm, telegraph services the front, and telephone services the left-hand arm.

The hall was inspired by the plan of the Crystal Palace in the Buen Retiro and conceived as a tribute to Palacios’s teacher, Ricardo Velázquez Bosco. Exterior windows provided natural light, reducing the need for artificial illumination. Galleries of semicircular arches with attached columns express the Neo-Plateresque character of the interior. Lighting fixtures, furniture, operations desks, and ventilation were conceived as parts of a unified artistic and functional design. Technical systems included low-pressure steam heating and natural ventilation.

Postal, telephone, and telegraph areas

The postal section included a mailbox area behind a portico and a large sorting hall known as the “Battle Room.” Around 400 postal workers could operate there. The telephone area contained twelve public booths designed to provide separation and privacy, while the telegraph arrangement allowed service to continue throughout the day and night. The former sorting hall now serves as the municipal plenary hall, retaining the relationship between the building’s original public infrastructure and its later civic use.

Passage of Alarcón

The Passage of Alarcón is approximately 130 metres long and 15 metres wide, connecting Calle de Alcalá with Calle de Montalbán. It was popularly called “Post Street.” The original design called for the passage to be roofed and for through traffic to be removed. Its position between the two buildings made it a central part of the complex’s circulation and service arrangement.

Former vehicle courtyard

Near Calle de Montalbán, a courtyard of about 600 square metres served as a loading area for postal transport vehicles. It was known as the van quay. The passage and former vehicle courtyard are now covered by the glass gallery created during the municipal conversion.

The gallery has an irregular triangular grid-shell roof weighing about 500 tonnes and covering nearly 2,500 square metres with glass. The German firm Schlaich Bergermann und Partner constructed it between 2008 and 2009 over the Passage of Alarcón and the former vehicle courtyard. The addition forms part of the building’s modern municipal and cultural configuration.

Municipal and cultural interiors

The municipal conversion created the mayor’s office, an investiture hall, and a government meeting room on the fourth floor. The former operations courtyard received citizen-information and reading areas designed by Pedro Feduchi. CentroCentro occupies approximately 30,000 square metres within the complex and includes two exhibition rooms and an auditorium for 262 people. Its opening exhibitions included the photographic exhibition Habitantes y paseantes and a display about the palace’s rehabilitation and transformation.

The central tower is approximately 40 metres high, with a viewing area on the seventh floor. A terrace connected with a restaurant occupies the sixth-floor level. Together, the towers, halls, passage, courtyards, white stone facade, and glass gallery preserve the principal architectural components of the former communications headquarters while accommodating its current civic and cultural functions.

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