Noltland Castle: A Historic Scottish Fortress on Westray, Orkney Islands

Noltland Castle
Noltland Castle
Noltland Castle
Noltland Castle
Noltland Castle

Visitor Information

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Official Website: www.historicenvironment.scot

Country: United Kingdom

Civilization: Early Modern

Site type: Military

Remains: Castle

History

Noltland Castle is situated on the island of Westray, part of the Orkney Islands in Scotland, and was constructed by Scottish builders in the 15th and 16th centuries. The site’s earliest known fortification dates back to 1420 when Thomas Tulloch, the Bishop of Orkney at that time, established the original castle. His successor, William Tulloch, maintained the property until 1477. During the late 1400s, the castle became the focus of local conflicts, notably enduring a siege launched by the Sinclairs of Warsetter, a rival Scottish family.

The present castle structure began taking shape in 1560 under the direction of Gilbert Balfour, a prominent courtier who served as Master of the Household to Mary, Queen of Scots. Balfour acquired the estate through his marriage to Margaret Bothwell, sister of Adam Bothwell, the Bishop of Orkney. Construction of the castle extended over more than a decade, lasting until 1573, although it was probably not completed by then. Balfour’s career was marked by involvement in significant political events, including aiding in the 1546 assassination of Cardinal David Beaton and the 1567 murder of Lord Darnley. Afterward, he faced execution for treason in Sweden in 1576.

Around 1572, ownership briefly shifted when Robert Stewart, who would later become Earl of Orkney, took control of the castle. Shortly thereafter, it was restored to the Balfour family by 1574. In the closing years of the 16th century, either 1592 or 1598, William Stewart of Egilsay seized the stronghold on behalf of his half-brother, Patrick Stewart, the second Earl of Orkney. Patrick Stewart retained the castle for at least five years, and during this time, it is believed he commissioned the unusually broad spiral staircase in the southwest tower.

Ownership changed again in 1606 when Sir John Arnot purchased the estate from Sir Andrew Balfour. Arnot later became Sheriff of Orkney in 1611 after Patrick Stewart was imprisoned for treason in 1610. During the 17th century, the castle continued to play a military role; it provided sanctuary for forces loyal to the Marquis of Montrose following the 1650 Battle of Carbisdale and was subsequently occupied by troops serving under Oliver Cromwell. The castle suffered fire damage in 1746, leading to its abandonment by around 1760. In the 20th century, Noltland Castle came under state protection beginning in 1911 and is presently managed as a historic site.

Remains

Noltland Castle stands on a distinctive Z-shaped plan, combining a rectangular main block with two rectangular towers placed diagonally at opposite corners. The main building stretches approximately 26.4 meters long by 11 meters wide, while each tower covers roughly 8.2 square meters. Entry to the castle is through the tower located at the southwest corner. Constructed with walls about seven feet thick, the castle’s primary façade runs east to west and bears a carved inscription from the Biblical Book of Exodus, reading, “When I see blood I will pass over you in the night,” linking the structure to symbolic protective themes.

The castle rises four floors plus an attic, with its defensive character highlighted by a remarkable total of 71 gun loops—narrow vertical openings designed for firearms—a number unmatched in any other Scottish castle. Some of these gun loops resemble those found at Muness Castle, Scalloway Castle, and The Earl’s Palace in Kirkwall, hinting at architectural influences or shared military design practices across these northern strongholds.

Within the ground floor, the kitchen has been identified by the presence of a large hearth complete with an oven suitable for preparing meals, alongside adjacent storage rooms. Access to the first-floor great hall is granted via a notably wide spiral staircase situated in the southwest tower. This staircase winds around a sturdy central stone column topped with an ornately carved capital, stylistically similar to one dated to 1595–1603 at Fyvie Castle. A smaller stairway connects the kitchen to the hall, allowing discrete movement between service and main areas.

During the 17th century, a courtyard was added on the southern side of the castle, later accompanied in the 18th century by an L-shaped wing extending from this courtyard. Archaeological excavations carried out in the 1870s revealed human skeletons within the vicinity of the castle, indicating the former presence of a burial ground once located to the west. These remains contribute to the understanding of the castle’s historical use as both a fortress and a place linked to its surrounding community.

Today, the ruins of Noltland Castle reflect its long and complex history, preserving architectural elements that illustrate its defensive purpose and noble occupation through turbulent centuries on the Orkney Islands.

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